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Let me start by saying this about tractors, if you think you are going to run your hobby farm with a 4 wheeler and the wanna be farmer attachments they make for 4-wheelers, you are asking for trouble.  I use the rule of thumb to buy a tractor with a horsepower equivalent of 2-3 times the number of acres you have BUT no less than 25 hp.  I had 7 acres on my first farm and bought a 26 hp 4WD Kioti.  I still have it and is still serves proudly, despite the dings and dents in it.  When we bought our second farm (The Broken Cedar, where we live today) we had 12 acres originally and it worked out well.  Now we have 40 acres (A perfect 16th of a section, see farmland page for land dimensions and terms) and I have a 78 Horse John Deere.  My neighbor who farms for a living told me to get a 100 - 120 hp tractor and I probably should have taken his (and my own) advice.  The 2-3 times the number of acres is a good rule.

Tractor Maintenance

When I labored over what tractor to buy and whether or not to buy new or used, I read a very informative article from one of the major agricultural universities (I am not lazy and trying to avoid a footnote, I am middle aged and just cannot remember which school!)  and they provided some good guidance that has served me well.  They said regardless of the type of tractor, your maintenance costs are 87% less if you follow these 3 simple rules:

• Protect your tractor from the elements (Keep them under a shed)
• Change your fluids every year (Includes engine oil, hydraulic and differential fluids)
• Grease that baby up  (At the grease fittings, I mean)

I have lived by this for my little Kioti and Beth laughs at me as I scamper out in the rain to put my little orange work horse inside at the first sign of foul weather. 

Daily/Pre-Flight Maintenance:

• Check all fluids for proper levels including

  • Transmission Oil

  • Engine Oil 

  • Transmission Oil

  • Radiator

  • Transmission Oil  (Obviously, I feel very strongly about making sure your transmission fluid is at the proper level.  The transmission is the heart and soul of your tractor.  Take good care of it

• Tire pressure

• Lights and indicators and horn (If you have one)

• Fuel levels

• Check to make sure your PTO and 3 point all work

• If you have hydraulic implements like a back hoe or a front end loader, make sure your connections are not leaking and the hoses aren't bulging or worn.

Here are some ideas for periodic scheduled maintenance 

Winter Maintenance:

• Check the fuel level and top off with fuel to avoid water vapor.  Add a fuel extender if you do not use your tractor in the winter.

• Grease all grease fittings with a winter grease rated for your coldest temperatures
• If you mix anti-freeze and water for the summer, drain and add about 75% anti freeze to give you protection past 25 degrees.
• Make sure your battery is fully charged, cables are clean and connections free of corrosion.  A small electrolyte tester is a good tool to have for this.  
• Check the battery connections. The slightest bit of corrosion may not be visible but still hamper those cold AM starts when you need to plow your wife's car out to go to work, you get the point. If they are corroded, pull them off and wire brush them and treat with some baking soda and water, mixed to a paste.  Clean this solution off before reattaching the cables.
• Check the entire circuit from your battery from the battery to the solenoid on your starter.  Also check where your ground cable attaches to the frame fro proper ground.  Ensure it is tight and not corroded.
• If you have a block warmer, make sure the plug is clean, intact, and that you store your tractor somewhere you can plug it in.
• Treat your fan belts with some belt dressing to make sure they stay supple and do not crack.
• This is also a good time to grease and drag out the scraper blade. (See comment about battery connections above...)

Spring  Maintenance:

• Some folks say to check the fluid quality by draining some fluid off before starting the tractor for the season.  This lets the water settle out and the impurities settle to the drain hole.  Personally, I just always change the fluids every spring.  Differential, transmission and hydraulic fluids oil etc.  This insures there are no impurities and that all of the water that may have condensed is removed.
• If you did not use your tractor over the winter (I should be so lucky) check the cooling system starting at the radiator.  Look for cracks from freezing and leaks.  Mix a 50% anti-freeze and water solution for maximum cooling performance.  Also check all of your rubber hoses, or plastic parts like fans etc for cracks.  Squeeze the hoses, if they are cracked or don't rebound when compressed, replace them.  Make sure your clamps are tight without cutting the hose.
• Belts may become brittle and crack.  Replace them if they are the least bit worn because it is a rule somewhere that your tractor throws a belt at the point where you are furthest from the house or the truck.  I don't know how that happens, it just does.

Tractor Implements

Your tractor is the Swiss Army Knife of your hobby farm.  Having the right implements can make or break your back, your tractor and your enjoyment level when working around the farm.  Here are some of my experiences with implements.

Front-End Loader

I absolutely cannot say enough good things about having a front-end loader.  You can scoop rocks, use it as a mobile dumpster, and even use it to drive T posts for fencing.  (If you have ever banged away at T posts, this is really a cool thing).  If at all possible buy a loader when you get your tractor.  You won't be sorry.

Brush Hog (Rotary Cutter)

When buying a brush hog, buy one that is about the same width as your back tires.  If you have serious brush hogging to do, consider a hydraulic brush hog, maybe one with wings that fold.  These require a fairly large tractor >80 hp but save a great deal of time.  This implement is like a course cut lawn mower that can cut thick brush and even small saplings.  Make sure you keep them greased (especially the pto shaft and connections) and free of wire and other long stringy stuff that wrap around the center spindle.

more to come....

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